Day 46 (Welcome to Florida)

Daily stats

Start: 6:30 AM - Walker Island in Perdido pass AL
Finish: 12:00 PM - Pensacola Kayak and Sail, Pensacola FL
Time: 5:30
Daily dist: 22 miles
Total dist: 1,359 miles
Companions: None
Weather: Mostly cloudy with slight east wind with storms once I got off the water
Notes: I took out at the kayak shop just as a very wet thunder storm came through. I’m storing my boat and gear there while I stay with the aunt and uncle of my friend/coworker Alicia.

All along the route up to this point everyone I talked to (almost without fail) warned me of the many perils I would face further down the line. It was as though a map of the unknown waters that lie ahead was marked with notes and pictures that read “Thar be dragons.” It was with an undercurrent of deep seeded caution that I worked my way down the Mississippi always waiting for the monster whirlpool that would suck me and my kayak completely under water. Or of tow barges in the Intracoastal that would kick up wake so big it would wreck my day. Then in the upper Gulf of Bull sharks taking a bight out of anything that moves because they can‘t see that well in the dark waters. The passage was not without it’s risks and very rough conditions can exist. However, people’s visions of what is out there tend to be greatly exaggerated or geared toward the worst case scenario.

That was, of course, everything up to this point. As I neared Florida all of the skull and crossbones warnings were replaced with smiley faces as people gushed about of all the wonderful beaches, clear water, and sunshine I’d experience once I got here. In my mind Florida became the promised land of all things pleasant and I looked forward to making it. So it was this morning when I passed by the last piece of land that was anything but Florida I took a picture, noted the time (8:00 AM), and started looking for the beautiful mermaids.

Of course there are still risks that I’ll face over the next two months in Florida as I will for the entirety of this trip. But there is a lot of truth to the beauty that Florida has to offer (especially to a kayaker like me) and especially on the west coast of the state. Because of the sheer amount of coast line that Florida has and because of the tourism industry (which is geared toward people using the water) Florida’s waterways are designed less for heavy industry and more for recreational boat users. There are pockets of industry where high sea walls and heavy machinery prevail, but those areas are easily avoided and accessible beaches are never too far away. There are sections of coast, just like what I saw in MS and AL, that are almost continuously developed with beach houses and condos, but here state parks are sprinkled throughout meaning there will almost always be a place where I can pull off the water and not be under the watchful eyes of a ten story apartment complex.

What’s really great for a kayaker traveling along Florida’s coast is that the path ahead has already been paved. An excellent guide has been written for the entire coastline highlighting the camp spots, re-supply points, take outs, points of interest, etc that a paddler could need. In addition, in what would be the most tricky spots where sand coast gives way to mud and dense mangrove forests, actual canoe and kayak trails have been established complete with marked and maintained camp spots and even elevated platforms making the passage much easier.

It’s no secret that Florida has a lot to offer sea kayakers and other water enthusiasts add the fact that this state is where I started kayaking ten years ago and I must say it feels good to be back.

This little island is the last piece of Alabama you pass on the ICW before entering Florida

My entry into Florida came in the Intracoastal waterway which I decided to paddle this morning because I was already camped a mile in the night before. My welcome into Florida came later in the day when I reached Pensacola (The western gate to the Sunshine State). I had been corresponding with the folks at Pensacola Sail and Kayak and made arrangements to store the Ikkuma and much of my gear with them. I paddled right up behind their shop at noon today and walked upstairs in my paddling clothes to Jerry who said simply, “You must be the guy.” Jerry helped be get squared away and I took advantage of a hose to rinse the salt and sand off my gear that had been accumulating over the last several days. Once all the gear maintenance was done I called Bob and Rosemary Blackington (the uncle and aunt of my friend/coworker Alicia at Aqua Adventures in San Diego). Alicia had started making arrangements for me to stay with them way back when I had a rough go of things in Vicksburg. In a few minutes they arrived and after a quick signing of the boat, then a stop for a burger, took me home to get cleaned up and rest a bit. Bob and Mary are every bit as fun and entertaining as Alicia told me they’d be and they made me feel right at home in their beautiful house and even offered up the use of their vehicle to get around town while I’m here. I took them up on the offer of the car as I had some other folks in town that I needed to meet.

Mary signing the Ikkuma

Way back in Baton Rouge I wrote about Jamie and George at Baton Rouge Blueprint and how they were so helpful in getting me sorted out for the beginning of the Gulf Coast portion of this trip. They suggested that I post a message on the Pensacola sport fishing forum (of which they are members) to see if I could get any advice from the local boaters. The avalanche of advice, information, and offers of places to stay that came from that one post was amazing. One of the folks I heard from the most “Banana Tom” told me that many of the people get together on Wednesday night for happy hour so I seized the opportunity to meet many of the people and thank them for their offers of hospitality in person. It was at the Oar House Restaurant (pronounced very carefully) that I finally met Tom and a whole pile of people that were interested in the trip. I spoke for quite a while to a great couple originally from Kansas (forgive me guys I forgot your names) he kayak fishes a lot in the area and has been following along with the trip very closely. 

A highlight of the evening was when Dale (a very close “like sisters” friend of Jamie back in Baton Rouge) presented me with a Marti Gras bead (medalian) and a very rare pin showing the insignia of the Molly Rogers Pirates of which I have now met two of the select few of this very exclusive group. It wasn’t until I was all set up in camp last night, and started studying my maps, that I realized that I was only a few miles short of Dale’s house right on the Intracoastal. She had offered up the apartment above the garage to stay and I was a little frustrated that I missed the opportunity. Not because I missed a bed to sleep in but because I missed the chance to meet with her a little more.

I also didn’t get much of a chance to talk to Banana Tom but we made plans to meet before I left which should be easy because (small world that it is) it turns out he lives in the same neighborhood as the Blackingtons.

Two great folks that I met at the happy hour

Dale (Jamie's friend) at happy hour

After the happy hour I took further advantage of wheels and headed over to the Super Wal-Mart to get provisions for the next week or so. In a effort to fill the bottomless pit my stomach has become I purchased a small chocolate cake and swiped a fork from the deli counter so I could eat it in the parking lot. To my wonderment, when I got back to the Blackingtons I discovered that Mary had made brownies which I was happy to have a serving of as well.

Florida truly is the promised land.