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Day 37 (arrival in New Orleans)

1/11/2010

16 Comments

 
Daily stats
Start: 6:45 AM- On the river
Finish: 3:00 PM - New Orleans (staircase in French Quarter)
Time: 8:15
Daily dist: 61 miles
Total dist: x miles
Companions: None
Weather: Chilly with clear skies and almost no wind
Notes: Launch was delayed due to frozen gear. Probably the coldest morning of entire trip due to heavy frost. Very heavy tow and ship traffic kept me out of the main channel. Picked up by Bill Strickland to spend the night at his place.
Picture
While all the stories of the river between Baton Rouge and New Orleans being all industry and boat traffic was not true yesterday, it was most certainly the case today. In the 61 miles I paddled today I would guess that the shore along almost 45 of those miles was lined with either loading docks, parked barges, or moored super tankers. Add to that a dizzying number of tow boats running every which way while they jockey barges into rafts and a few super tankers coming and going in the river, and chaos barely describes the scene on the river today. I was able to handle the rough water created by all the traffic but my hat is off to anybody that has done that run in an open canoe. Camping would have been a challenge along the way today but there was still a few spots that would work if one was not too fussy.

The cold snap we’ve been experiencing is due to lift but it was still very cold around here over night last night. I may not have been the lowest temperature I’ve seen on this trip but with the heavy frost that accompanied the cold my gear was iced up worse than I’ve ever seen. I ended pulling out my cook stove to thaw my tent poles so I could take them apart and stow then in my boat. Getting into my frozen boots proved to be challenging and I had to stand in the river to use the somewhat warmer river water to thaw them enough to squeeze my feet into them. It took about three hours of vigorous paddling until my body warmed the inside of the Ikkuma enough that the tube leading to my water bag was thawed enough to drink from.

The cold and shipping traffic conspired to delay me today and I ended up in New Orleans a bit later than I expected but it worked out well giving me enough time to empty the Ikkuma and get changed before Bill came to pick me up. Where I pulled off the water was at a wide set of wooden stairs that leads right to the waters edge. The spot is right in the heart of the French Quarter just across the street from the iconic St. Louis cathedral. Certainly a good place to make an entrance into New Orleans. When I arrived several people were hanging out on the steps enjoying the sunshine and view of the river. A few men (the unshaved sort that seem to have nothing but time to kill) were very curious about where I started and where I was going. When I told them I left Baton Rouge yesterday they were impressed. When they learned that I left St. Lewis a month ago they had to shake my hand. They ended up adding their signatures to the few blank spots left on the deck while I packed my gear into the duffel bags and waited for my ride.

From today’s take out I could see one of the lift bridges over the Intracoastal waterway the entrance to which lies only one mile further downstream. That means that today was the last full day on the Mississippi river for this phase of the journey. It has been a fun run down from St. Louis and with all the bumps I hit along the way I’ve already had an adventure I will never forget. For as much as I’ve enjoyed the raw beauty and power of the river I am really looking forward to moving on into new waters. The river, especially in winter and at nearly flood levels is a demanding place to paddle.

16 Comments
Jan Kleck
1/11/2010 05:05:54 pm

It really is exciting to begin another part of this journey and one cannot help but wonder what adventures are ahead. Certainly some warmth has to be one to look forward to and the challenge of increased traffic another. Not having to stand in the water to warm up your frozen boots will not be missed and possibly using your cook stove for eating warm food might just be an adventure to look forward to - rather than using the equipment to thaw out tent poles?? As always, in our thoughts.

Reply
lyn stachovak
1/11/2010 08:23:10 pm

Good morning Jake and good morning Jan... What on earth are you doing up so early or should I have said late? Welcome to New Orleans Jake. I only wish you could or would spend a little time exploring the Quarter, but it'll be there for you to check out another day I guess. Better to get on the ocean while the weather is decent - you said something about thunderstorms moving in? Look at the bright side, it's not a blizzard that's moving in???

Dad and I are going to Manitowoc to see Micah and Jonas (Aaron and Aurise too) this morning. I'm hoping to see some big ships myself on Lake Michigan - then again, do those big tankers go on the lakes in the winter? I don't know, I've never looked.

Love you - stay warm and hopefully dry.

Reply
Tom
1/11/2010 09:28:34 pm

Welcome to New Orleans!!!

I know you plan is to not stay long too bad. This town has so much more to offer than Baton Rouge. But, heck, Florida's sugar white beaches are calling, see ya when you get this way.
BT

Reply
Jan Kleck
1/11/2010 09:51:28 pm

lyn - you are probably on your way to Manitowoc by this late hour - 8:45 a.m. - have a good day! You probably know nothing about getting older and waking up in the middle of the night. Obviously, when this happens to me, I think of Jake and wonder if he has finished his blog for the previous day -so I run right to the computer. Usually, I walk - sometimes run! Always love to read your family's comments! Sense of humor is never far from the surface.

Reply
Jake
1/11/2010 09:52:09 pm

I can't resist. I'm going to spend the day today (Tuesday) in New Orleans. It would have been crazy to have only seen the steps by the water and not much else of this famous town. The water will be there tomorrow, today I'm on to the French Quarter.

Reply
Neil B
1/11/2010 10:38:02 pm

Good call. Say hi to the Aquarium and a plate of beignet for me.

Sounds cold up there. So will it be called Mardi 'Thaw' this year?

Reply
Jenny
1/11/2010 10:53:27 pm

Atta boy Jake. You won't regret taking the time to see a few sites ! Lucky guy !!
:) Jenny
p.s. it was great chatting with you. Call any time.

Reply
Tootie
1/11/2010 11:29:06 pm

Great decision, Jake. You may as well take advantage of it while you are there. Hope there is warmer weather ahead for you. Enjoy the day!

Reply
Andy
1/11/2010 11:39:56 pm

Have fun in NO Jake, have a cafe au lait and a beignet for me. I will make do with a coffee and suzie-Q. Have a train ride over to the garden district if you have time too. Andy

Reply
Steven Krause
1/12/2010 12:11:32 am

The French Quarter. I'd make a joke about the French but whenever I do I hear about my great-grandfather, who was born in Orleans. The one in France. Our January thaw starts tomorrow.

Reply
lois
1/12/2010 01:32:45 am

Alright Jake!!! I'm in total agreement, you'll have many great memories to carry with you after your stop in NO.

Reply
Thom
1/12/2010 03:30:46 am

Congratulations for getting to New Orleans Jake. Enjoy the city and we look forward to hearing about your upcoming paddle along the Gulf.

Reply
dave Lindo link
1/12/2010 10:24:45 am

Hey Jake,
I received a call from Canoe and Kayak Magazine about the new whitewater park they are building in OKC. I told him about your trip. He said he was interested, and indicated that this may end up on the online version of the magazine so that the readers can follow along. His name is Kyle Dickman, should you receive a call from someone.

Enjoy yourself!
Dave and Crew from OKC Kayak

Reply
jim (unka) link
1/12/2010 11:27:34 am

Hi jake, wouldn't your feet stay warmer if you just wore a couple of pairs of dry socks instead of wet boots? You're not walking on rocks, afterall..

Lyn, If you look really close, you can see ships on Lake Michigan .. At this time of year they put skates under them and push them with snowmobiles..

.......jiminwisc......

Reply
Chris Griffith link
1/12/2010 01:32:55 pm

Congrats on making it to the Big Easy!

Reply
dad
1/13/2010 08:22:09 am

Hi Jake,
Glad you had time to visit your mothers favorite place on earth. I enjoyed it also. Hope the temp warms up for you as they are promising us here at home.

Keep stroking,
Dad

Reply



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