Start: 7:30 AM - Entrance to Crystal River FL Finish: 3:30 PM - Chassahowitzka Springs FL Time: 8:00 Daily dist: 28 miles Total dist: 1783 miles Companions: None Weather: SE wind 10-15 mph Notes: Saw manatees and the first kayakers in Florida  me at the springs Hey Joe from Kansas, you can relax man… I saw some manatees! Poor Joe, who I met up in Pensacola, has been e-mailing repeatedly urging me to stop and check out Crystal River to see the manatees. I can only imagine his disappointment when my spot marks touched at the end of Crystal River but never went up to where the manatees would be. He had no need to worry though, once I realized that the weather was going to throw a system my way that would stop me in my tracks for a couple days, I made plans to be some place that would be comfortable and fun. The Florida Circumnavigation guide showed only a couple camp sites along this section of coast and one happened to be right at the end of the Chassahowitzka river at the like named springs. The guide not only said the campground there not only has showers but that the area is popular with manatees. The perfect place to wait out the wind. Today was the eleventh consecutive day of paddling for me and my body and psyche were nearing their limit of effective use. I was grateful to have a sheltered water route, mostly out of the wind, to run the twenty odd miles south from Crystal River to Chasahowitzka. I was doubly glad when I started on the route and discovered that the trail is well marked and I wouldn’t have to think too hard to make sure I stayed on track through the labyrinth of channels and bays that links the two rivers. Quite frankly my tired body and mind were not up to the task. The route from Crystal River down to Homosassa River is very well marked and absolutely gorgeous. The route winds around Indian shell middens and coral rock islands covered with palms and cedars. With the first mangroves I’ve seen on the trip, the area offers an amazing mix of several coastal plant environments. It was a great morning of paddling through an area I can’t recommend enough. Things changed drastically however, when I passed south of the Homosassa river. The trail markers I’d been able to mindlessly follow suddenly disappeared along with the water. After taking two turns south of the Homosassa (convinced I was on the right route) I suddenly found myself temporally misplaced (I won’t say lost) in a broad maze of low featureless salt marsh islands. To make matters more interesting the already shallow water was rapidly receding with the outgoing tide turning the always shallow channels into mud flats. The upper half of the trail had been so well marked I was convinced that I must have wondered off the course. So I backtracked a bit and fired up my GPS to verify my location. Sure enough I was still on track but, right when I could have used them most, the red and green trail markers were gone. I’m not sure why the top half of the route would be so well marked and not the bottom. Judging by the night and day difference between the two halves of the route I’m guessing the trail keepers might not want to admit to the lower half. In place of the beautiful palm covered islands were just featureless grass islands, oyster banks, and mud. With the tide out I found myself on foot dragging my loaded boat over oysters and mud.  I think it’s the Indian word for “where did the trail markers go?” There is no feeling like walking through an area like that with a rope over your shoulder, only -thinking- that you’re on the right path. I dragged through impossibly narrow channels that the route on my map indicated as the correct path but with no other indicator than faith that it indeed was.  running out of water For a mile I continued on like this, sometimes dragging sometimes paddling, until the route finally widened and got deep enough to commit completely to paddling again. All along the way I watched my map and GPS closely until I finally came upon a rotten shell covered wooden stake stuck in the mud, then another, and another. Were these the channel markers or just long forgotten sign posts for lord knows what? I didn’t know. At any rate it was something, and I was convinced I was on the right path, so I was again able to relax and focus on the task of avoiding exposed oyster beds and crab traps in the still receding water. At last I came into the entrance of the Chassahowitzka river and turned inland for the last four mile run upstream to the river’s source. Along the way the river got increasingly clearer and warmer and the plant life changed from salt marsh to freshwater palm and oak forest. As I came to within a mile of the rivers source I saw a sight more rare than any other on the water, not a dolphin doing back flips, not a shark leaping out of the water, not an osprey grabbing a fish off the surface of the water, not a cormorant swallowing a fish bigger than it’s head (which I did see today), not a flock of several hundred waterfowl (which I have also seen), even more rare than a manatee. After 15 days and over 300 miles of paddling the Florida coast, the very rare sight I saw when I rounded that bend was… OTHER KAYAKERS!  John and Maryann, the first kayakers I saw in 300 miles of FL coast With an un-concealable feeling of excitement I paddled right up to the startled couple and asked them if I could take their picture. I didn’t want to miss the chance to preserve an image of such a rare occurrence. After taking their picture and getting their names, John and Maryann. I learned that they are…get this…from Kansas. HEY FLORIDA PADDLERS ARE YOU OUT THERE!? I know I’ve been paddling some of the most remote coast line in the state in during a streak of outright unpleasant paddling weather, which has to explain why I had yet to see one other kayak on the water since I left Alabama. I know that when the weather conditions improve and I get to more populated areas, Florida’s paddlers will come out of the woodwork to show me just what this state‘s paddling and paddlers are all about…right?  They actually pushed our boats with their shouts John and Maryann were about to turn and head back upstream to the campground where they are also staying so they joined me on the paddle back to the boat landing. Along the way they took me into the small side bay where they know manatees like to hang out. Sure enough in a cove not much more than 50 yards across, and as much deep, a half dozen of the gentle beasts were hanging out. John and I approached gently and hovered next to one of the largest of the animals it‘s back (as is so often the case) scarred from numerous encounters with boats. It paid us not attention but before long the younger and smaller manatees came right up to us and started to gently nudge our boats.  I tickled the water with my fingers and one curious youngster came to the sound and stuck it’s snout out of the water and let me caress its head. It was incredible. We stayed in the cove for a half hour with one and sometimes two manatees at a time coming up to our boats to check us out and seemingly looking for a pet. After a while even the big scared back giant we first saw rose to the surface and came over to check us out. I can’t say if the weather had been better, if I would have made the time to take the inside route today or paddle all the way up this river. The big winds that put me here today are a true blessing. Sometimes it does pay to slow down and smell the roses. Comments02/04/2010 11:09pm
Jake, Jake, Dave Diederich 02/05/2010 6:44am
I was hoping that you would see the manatees at Crystal River as well and was disappointed when you passed them by. I'm glad you found them. Beautiful creatures. Enjoy. Neil B 02/05/2010 7:04am
With water and air temps in the 60s, no wonder there's no Florida paddlers out there. That's cold! ...and don't be confused, as you paddle south you will encounter more and more Midwesterners, New Englanders and Canadians. Trust your compass and stay on course, this anomaly will begin to fade away as you exit Florida on the Atlantic side. Long story on those trail markers. Citrus County put them in without any permits years ago and had to pull most of them out. The remark has been in limbo for several years. Not high on the County's priorioty list apparently. The ones north of the Homosassa were put in by local powerboaters and commercial fishermen. South of that it's National Wildlife Refuge and for a long time, a restricted area, hence no markers. Once you leave Chassahowitzka, it'll be pretty much the same: no markers until you get around Pine Island. Luke Stachovak 02/05/2010 9:09am
Aaron, do I speak for you too when I say OUCH! If it's any consolation though Jake was always my favorite too! Stacie 02/05/2010 9:14am
I am also an avid kayaker, and a maine guide. I was just in the everglades of florida for 200 miles of paddling and i feel your pain! we hit that arctic front for our expedition and didn't see hardly anyone the whole time either. i can imagine that being solo it is so much more exciting when you do run into folks! i've been following your travels and am so jealous to not be living out of my boat. good luck and take care!!!!! Steven Krause 02/05/2010 9:15am
Last summer I was picking blueberries along highway 70 and a couple stopped to ask where they could pick blueberries. They said they were from Kansas. It must be a good place to get away from. To Wisconsin. To Florida. To the Land of Oz. .... Two questions. Do the locals really call it Chassahowitzka? And do they ever hint that they just might possibly have some idea (heard from someone else, of course) as to what roast manatee might taste like? Aaron Stachovak 02/05/2010 10:01am
Steve, I hear manatee tastes a little like a spotted owl or blue heron. 02/05/2010 10:35am
Jake, you are so lucky to have encountered manatees. They're my favorite--so gentle! We were privileged to see a mother and baby in the Pascagoula River back in October! It was a thrill. Iris 02/05/2010 11:29am
Great blog, fun to read! And yes, we Floridians do paddle when it is freezing and raining! But not during thunderstorms! Wish you had paddled into the Crystal River to visit Three Sisters Springs! Lenora 02/05/2010 11:43am
What a beautiful and moving experience. I'm so glad the weather took you there. cousin Andy 02/05/2010 12:23pm
Jake, Joe 02/05/2010 1:47pm
Jake Lyn Stachovak 02/05/2010 2:39pm
Wow - Jake... It looks like you're getting some really rotten weather???!!! Hope you're someplace dry and safe. Ron Miller 02/05/2010 4:44pm
Luke and Aaron. Loved you guys too. Jake only won by a hair. After I went back to bed early this morning I laid awake and thought of some of the times on Monroe street. You guys had great parents AND grandparents. I thought the world of Grandpa Vince and 'ma Sylvie. Not sure about some of your uncles though. (We'll see if we get a reply on that.) I remember Sylvie cooking up a 'coon for me that I had trapped. Sylvie was a great cook. Also remember Vince going fishing just about every morning. Remember Vince butchering chickens by the spot in the garden where he cleaned fish. A chicken got away and I said I would get it with my slingshot. Well you all know what Vince replied about a 70' shot--I won't write it! I did nail the chicken on my first shot. He got away and after about two weeks of chasing him on and off I never did hit him again. Vince about swallowed his teeth. I'm still chuckling. Loved them good all days. RJM brinda curran 02/05/2010 6:34pm
Hope your journey is safe and filled with lots of adventure. Yes, there are lots of avid kayakers in central Florida. We have some of the most beautiful clearwater springs and rivers in this area. Plus we have manatees. Who could ask for more... see you on the water, bjc Colleen 02/05/2010 7:53pm
Jake, I can not tell you how jealous I am that you were around that many manatees. I am sure it was a awesome experience. Stay Safe Sheila 02/05/2010 8:59pm
I also have visited with the manatee and loved it. I did the 3 sisters springs and yes, you should go back and do these sometime. These large gentle sea cows are the best. If I ever got a tatoo it would be of them. As of now, I feel like I'm the only one in the world without a tatoo and without any saints logo of any kind. You have got to take off Sun. and watch Game 44!! And, pull for those Saints! 02/05/2010 9:25pm
Jake: pa 02/05/2010 10:14pm
Hi Jake, Cousin Alice 02/06/2010 7:43am
Hi Jake! I agree-- your posts are poetic! I loved reading about the manatees. What an experience to remember! Amazing. Leave a Reply | Best of the Blog
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