Day 17 (back home on the water) 12/22/2009
Daily stats Start: 8:03 AM - New Madrid, MO Finish: 3:34 PM - South of Caruthersville, MO Time: 7:30:52 Daily dist: 50 Total dist: 423 miles Weather: Start in around 30 with a high in the mid-50s. cloudy.  As I sit here wrapped up in my sleeping bag gorging myself on the Christmas candy my mother sent down, I can’t really say I’m roughing it. I had almost settled for a brambly muddy shore to land on this afternoon until my eye caught the glint of sand on an island a few miles further on. An extra half hour of paddling took me off the water late but I ended up on a nice piece of real estate high and dry for the night, ready for the rain in the forecast. The morning started off great with the better half of New Madrid coming to the water to see me off. Dave towed my boat and gear on his trailer right back to where I pulled out last Friday. He and Captain Chris suggested I launch from the town boat ramp but I had to refuse explaining that would have violated my only rule for this trip (no downstream help). I know it sounds silly but it matters to me.  Everyone watched in awe (me included) as three full bags of gear disappeared into the hatches of the Ikkuma. With water bottles topped off and a full bag of Christmas candy it was a bit of a squeeze and one lucky kid got a bottle of soda that I just couldn’t quite fit in. After a few pictures, a big hug to Cheryl for my mom, and many good byes I launched into a thick morning fog.  The day was fairly routine minus the first half hour. The fog was pea soup thick and I could only see a few boat lengths in any direction. I wanted to miss a side chute past the town grain elevator docks so I steered into the channel and ran with the flow. After a few minutes of paddling I came slowly upon a buoy that was leaning the wrong way in the current. As I paddled very slowly up to it more than a moment past while my mind worked to comprehend that I was on an up stream treadmill facing the wrong way on the wrong side of the river. In minutes from pushing off I’d managed to paddle a giant loop in the fog. As I tried to convince myself that the Mississippi does indeed know which way to go, I heard a low hiss and looked up to see a five barge wide tow on it’s way up stream with me in its path. A shot of adrenaline had me out of the channel in no time but with a little less room than I like between me and a tow. Shaken but not stirred I decided that keeping close to the shore line would be the smart way to go until I could see more than tree tops in the mist. This was a notable day in that it was the first that I didn’t have to wear my pogies (mittens) for even a minute. I also went without the dry suit for the first time in this trip donning instead the Kokatat Tec Tour paddling jacket and paddling pants that my mom had sent down as replacements for the stolen dry suit. I was in heaven being able to open up the collar and ventilate the jacket when I got warm, so much more comfortable than being sealed up in the dry suit all day. I will be back on the water in an hour 12/22/2009
I don't know how much internet acces I'm going to have over the next couple days. So I wanted to let everyone know that my bags are packed and in a few minutes David White, one of my friends here in New Madrid, is going to give me a ride to the water and send me on my way. My plan is to try to hit it hard and get to Helena AK by sometime Christmas day. However I'm running right into two days of rain and strong wind so I may end up short. I've had a couple offers to stay with folks in Memphis so if I don't make it that's probably where I'll stay. Right now I'm a little troubled trying to figure out what should be done with all of the generous donations that were given with the thought of paying to have all my gear replaced. With my stuff turning up yesterday, I'm back on my feet and geared up better than ever, and am no longer in need of any kind. There is a very good record of what everybody donated. If you'd prefer I keep it for the rest of the trip, I thank you as it will make things a bit more comfortable. If you'd like the money back so you can send it elsewhere just let me know and we'll get it to you. Please let me know either eay so I can put my mind at ease. For everyone waiting for "the rest of the story" from some of my tales please hang in there I'm trying to find time to get it all down. If you don't hear from me have a very Merry ChristmasMy stuff has been found! 12/21/2009
Just a few hours ago the New Madrid Police department with the efforts of the Chief Mc Ferren, Captain Chris Henry, and others, my gear was found and returned to the police department. All items are accounted for minus two hats, my shaving kit, and my mug. I’ll be spending the rest of today getting everything sorted and ready to launch back on the river tomorrow morning.  Cheif McFerren  Captain Chris Henry Thank you again everyone for going through such great efforts to keep me and this trip moving. I have come in contact with so many great people in the last couple days that, despite the terrible thing that occurred, my faith in what is good about mankind has been reinforced at its core.  Me in police car (front seat) I have learned a valuable lesson about keeping myself and my gear safe on this trip. More importantly, with the amazing outpouring of support I’ve received during this whole episode, I have been forced to pause and look hard at the lines that exist in our society and realized how blessed I am to be where I am in this world. Steeling is not right, yet I know those that took from me are not very well off due to problems that are, (and are not) of their creation. Steeling doesn’t make you richer at any level, it only hurts others. Yet, I never suffered for anything over the last few days. In fact I’ve been taken care of by the locals better than I take care of myself. All the while those who stole from me remained in the low place where they came with little hope of ever moving on. For all the help and care I’ve been given (that I didn’t really earn) thinking of those who are truly in need, I feel embarrassed. In this season of giving many people reached out to me in ways that I will always remember. To all of you I can only say thank you as I’ve been put back together better than new. If I can ask just one more favor please look close to home and find someone truly in need and see if you can’t help them too. The river is waiting. Day 14 (putting it all back together) 12/20/2009
First of all, thank you everyone for the tremendous outpouring of support that you’ve provided over the last two days. I fear I just don’t have time to thank each and every one of you personally so please understand that I appreciate everything that everyone has done for me. I couldn’t do it without you. With all the support you’ve given this whole episode is quickly turning into a bump in the road and learning experience that will make the rest of the trip safer and run all the more smoothly.  Christmas tree near the New Madrid observation deck ---- On report of my day yesterday, Day 14 ---- The day was spent trying to put myself and this trip back on track. The town of New Madrid (largely through the efforts of Cheryl and David White) has rallied to help me get re-equipped and back on the water.  Me with David at his Main Street Market Cheryl is a remarkable woman who seems to have the power to move mountains with a simple call from her cell phone. When I discovered the theft Friday night David’s phone number was the only I had, due to the fact that he had just given me his business card when I visited his store for supplies. In shock, and not sure what to do, I called David and explained my situation. While on the phone with David I could hear Cheryl in the background calling the police on her cell. Not 911, not the station phone number, rather their direct personal cell phone numbers... Cheryl is a good person to know. After years of working as a school teacher, and now by running a string of community health clinics in the area, as well as coordinating charitable organizations, Cheryl is connected. You might say she has her finger on the pulse of the town, I believe she is the source of the pulse of the town. It is in one of her (free to the community, funded by grants) health clubs that I am now catching up on my e-mails and blog posts. It is also here that I stayed Friday night after all the excitement, and where I’m keeping my boat and gear. One more call from Cheryl landed me a driver named JJ (I don’t know his full name, I’m not sure he has one). JJ was scheduled to arrive at 8:00 AM with a company (health clinic) van to drive me down to Memphis to track down the gear I need. After only two hours of sleep, I woke to sideways sleet and rain outside and a few moments later, right on schedule, JJ arrived. JJ is an interesting gentleman. About 5’-9” lanky, dark hair, scruffy goatee, high strung, completely likeable, and a little on the talkative side. Actually the only time I needed to speak was when he paused long enough to light a cigarette. JJ is the sort that knows everybody in town and, by his stories, seems to have done enough living in his 39 years to fill the lives of two men. He worked for a long time in the restaurant industry cooking and managing different establishments, then moved into the insurance billing field, and now into (self taught) computer technician duties. As much as I could ascertain, JJ seems now to be working for a few different people simultaneously, for his aunt’s catering business as a cook, Cheryl as a computer technician, and yesterday as my personal driver.  JJ My driver for the day I had JJ for the day as his only stipulation was to be back in time for his weekly Saturday night poker game, which kicks off around 9:00 PM. JJ’s main hobby seems to revolve around gambling, either on the many Casino boats along the river or card games at friend’s homes. While we weaved around 18 wheelers on the interstate, and between puffs on his cigarette, JJ provided me with a running commentary about the local industry, punctuated by the location of every river town that has a casino boat. I learned that the local economy is buoyed up mostly by farming (cotton, beans, and rice) as well as a large aluminum plant and power plant right outside of town. The river, the original source of the towns existence, growth, and prosperity, (now hidden on the back side of the levee) seems to have moved out of the average person’s consciousness. It’s twists and turns, boils, floods, and temperament a thing of low lying fear. The big muddy river that once went to New Madrid now just goes by.  New Madrid from the levy On the way to Memphis I called Elmore Holmes a gentleman that lives there and does a lot of paddling on the Mississippi all year. I found his web site last summer while I was putting together my plans for this trip and I have been harassing poor Elmore for information about the river ever since. Elmore suggested I check out Outdoors Inc. the local outdoor gear supplier to track down the gear I needed. After a quick car tour through downtown (did you know Memphis has street cars?) we found the store and worked with a knowledgeable kid named Brandon (younger than me anyway) to find all the gear I needed. One very important piece of my new kit came by way of a suggestion from Mike Boren at Aqua Adventures. It’s a wire mesh expandable and lockable bag that is designed to go around a backpacking pack then lock to a pole or tree. Mike suggested that when I get to a town I simply place my things in the duffel bags I already carry then secure those within one of these wire mesh cages. Mike is lucky he wasn’t right here because I my have kissed him full on the lips. That is the solution!  The pack lock in action After a bit more running around JJ and I doubled back to Elmore’s house so I could finally meet the man I’ve been e-mailing for months, and to borrow a PFD that I could use until a replacement comes in from out west. Elmore and his wife are great (I’m so sorry but I forgot her name). Both are artists in their trade, she does paintings and tile prints and he wood working when he’s not in his boat. We were greeted at the door by their four and a half foot tall Great Dane named Merlin (who doesn‘t like hats by the way). With not much time to visit Elmore filled me in on what he knew of the river in his area and we laid plans to hook up on the river as I passed through if the timing works out. Next we were back on the highway with a brief stop at a truck stop for dinner on our way back to New Madrid. While I listened to JJ talk I struggled to keep up with my half of the conversation while I watched tail lights blur and the effects of too little sleep the night before worked me over. Once back in town we met up with David White who had a box for me that contained a replacement sleeping bag and jacket from North Face that my friend Haley had on its way within minutes of my desperate call Friday night. David escorted me to an apartment on main street where it was another call from Cheryl that put me in the spare bedroom of Gary Harris to stay until I can move on. Gary is the town’s one and only dentist who actually lives about five hours away and keeps the apartment here. In this very poor community it’s Cheryl and her clinic that have convinced Gary to travel so far from his family to provide one of the services this town needs. Gary took it upon himself to go out and round up breakfast food so I would feel at home. Upon his return we chatted for a bit as I totally lost the fight to fatigue and finally turned in for the night. --------- ----------- On the technical side - All things considered the trip is coming back together very quickly. Which is good because winter is still nipping at my heals and I need to get south. My mom is sending down a box from Wisconsin containing my backpacking tent, spray skirt, and paddling jacket that will enable me to resume the trip. The paddling jacket a Kokatat TecTour is what I had planned on using once the ice-water winter leg of this trip was over. I’m making the carefully calculated decision to forgo a replacement dry suit and just switch over to the Tec Tour and paddling pants a bit sooner than planned. The tent will be a bit of a squeeze on the cold nights that still lie ahead but it will work in the short term until a replacement can be sent ahead of me from North Face. I must say that of all the assistance that I’ve gotten with gear (after Aqua Adventures) Haley and North Face have gone above and beyond whle helping me out. The skirt is a full neoprene Snap Dragon which is replacing the “Glacier Breathable” tube version I’d been using up to this point. With the long hours in the cockpit (day after day) a breathable tunnel is important to allow the wicking layers I’m wearing to move moisture away from my body. I’m going to go with the neoprene tunnel and look for a replacement if I have any trouble with discomfort along the way. With holiday shipping volume things may be slow to come but if all goes well I should be back on the water by Tuesday or Wednesday at the latest. Day 13 (A significant set back) 12/18/2009
Much of my gear has been stolen.Hello everyone, I regret to inform you that sometime yesterday afternoon (Friday Dec. 18th) while I was in town charging batteries and gathering water and supplies, a very large portion of my camping equipment as well as vital paddling gear was stolen from the bank where I was planning to set up camp that evening. I still have my boat, paddles, and electronics (which I took into town to charge) but most of the rest is gone. Right now I’m being aided by two amazing residents of New Madrid Missouri, David and Cheryl White while the better half of the local police force is working hard to recover my belongings. David and Cheryl have set me up with a place to stay for a few days while my old replacement gear is being sent in from home. I’ve already made calls to two some of my sponsors and North Face and Kokatat are working on sending in what they can. The fact remains that a large amount of gear is going to need to be purchased outright. A list of most of what was taken can be found below but I’m sure my memory is missing a few small items. I guess my trip is on hold indefinitely while replacement gear can be found. In the mean time please pray that the lead the police are pursuing might lead them to my gear. Also if you know anybody (or know anybody who knows anybody) that lives in the Southeast corner of Missouri in or around the New Madrid area please tell them to be on the lookout for high-tech camping and paddling gear that you wouldn’t normally find in a local duck hunter’s blind or fisherman’s truck. I need your help in spreading the word about this in hopes of finding that gear. Instead of focusing on the couple of bad people who may have done this, instead I’d like to make note of the many good residents of this town that have already stepped up to help me through this situation. Thank you everybody for all your support. Jake Please stay tuned. ----------------------------- From what I can remember this is what was taken. 1) Kokatat - Dry Suit Blue 2) Kokatat - MS Fit PFD Orange - (with knife in clip on font) 3) Kokatat - Knee length boots Black - (neoprene bottoms and grey vinyl “legs”) 4) Snap Dragon - Spray Skirt - Neoprene deck and grey vinyl tunnel 5) North Face - Minibus 32 Tent - Green rain fly grey main body 6) North Face - Sleeping bag green/grey 7) North Face - Synthetic fill jacket Blue/grey - - Size Medium 8) North Face - Wind stopper hat Black fleece - size XL 9) MSR - Whisperlite cook stove - Folding wire legs in black stuff sack 10) MSR - Cook kettles - Alloy Teflon coated 11) MSR - Fuel bottle Red - aluminum bottle (small) 12) MSR - spoon - Alloy aluminum - grey 13) Expend - Sleeping mat - Orange/grey w/ built in pump 14) Brunton - battery lantern - Small backpacker size lantern runs on AA 15) Stanley - Mug/Bowl nesting combo 16) Sea to Summit - Various sizes of compression dry sacks and regular dry sacks "big river version" 17) Misc - Red/metallic tarp 18) Misc - Small bag of toilet items 19) Misc - Off brand MP3 player 20) Misc - Knit wool full gloves and fingerless glove/mitten combo 21) Misc - Leather wide brimmed hat 22) Misc - Sunglasses with Chums floating retainer 23) Misc - Knit hat made by a friend - grey with red stripe Daily stats Start: 6:37 AM - Just south of the Mississippi - Ohio River confluence Finish: 1:51 PM - New Madrid, MO Time: 7:13:20 Daily dist: 55 miles Total dist: 373 miles Weather: Start in around 30 with a high in the mid-40s. Cloudy and calm. Day 12 12/17/2009
Daily stats Start: 6:35 AM - Cape Girardeau, MO Finish: 2:35 PM - Just south of the Mississippi - Ohio River confluence Time: 8:18:16 Daily dist: 57 miles Total dist: 318 miles Weather: Start around 30 with a high in the mid-40s. Clear and calm.  Early start and a nice sunrise Today ran the risk of becoming the first of what I’m sure will be many routine days. That was, however, until I turned the corner at Cairo IL (pronounced Kay-row) and saw what happens when the rain swollen Ohio river adds it’s flow to the mix. The rive down here is huge, it’s stunning.  The river is HUGE down here Up to this point I could change sides of the river whenever I chose to. After it took me twenty minutes to paddle from the Missouri side to the Kentucky side, I realized that from now on the bank I choose to paddle is going to be a weighty decision. Having all this high water means that I’ll be able to cut corners over what would normally be sand bars. The trouble is that the lack of sand bars is going to make finding camping spots much more interesting. Right now I’m set up on the edge of a hay field just up from the first shore access I could find for the last three miles. Judging from the scolding splashing I’m hearing on the river I believe I may have chosen a beaver’s access point. The last time I heard that noise was when my friend Neil and I put ourselves in a similar spot and ended up with angry beavers dragging branches past our tent all night long. The day went well and I paddled nearly 60 miles. I did decide, whatever the mileage, my limit is 8 hours on the water. Any more than that and I start to fall apart. The flood plain is noticeably wider down there so I know my web access is going to be hit and miss. I asked Neil to please at least post my daily stats which he’s been calculating off my SPOT hits every day. That way you all can at least see the progress I’ve made. Day 11 (and day 10 fill in) 12/16/2009
Daily stats Start: 7:00 AM- 4 miles above Grand Tower IL Finish: 11:30 AM - Cape Girardeau MO Time: 4:30 Daily dist: 34 miles - 24 miles gained over yesterday (long story) Total dist: aprox. 210 miles Companions: Brent in the morning the solo on the water Weather: Clear with slight SE breeze - cold Notes: I don't have time right now to explain the ten mile loss in mileage. Just know that it was one hell of a night. I'll try to write it up tonight when I have more time.  Hi everyone. I'm currently in Cape Girardeau MO doing some laundry, eating two foot long subs, and charging up my batteries. I hadn't intended to stop but when I saw the super easy access from river to down town I couldn't pass it up. I started the day in Brent's house boat and was very happy to have totally warm and dry clothes to put on, still I could smell them from across the room. I also took advantage of the house boat heater and warmed up my boots (luxury for sure). I got a nice early start out of the house boat and pushed hard to make up the ten miles I lost last night. I made great time and like I said when I saw the easy take out I couldn't pass it up.    It's fun watching the ice form My plan now is to push hard to try to get to Helena AR by Christmas. I'll have to stop one more time for water but with today's break I should be ready to make a good go of it. Day 10 fill inThat was my good friend Neil that posted the last blog for me. Like he said I didn't have much of a net connection from the houseboat yesterday. What I'm going to do is post what I had written yesterday while I was waiting for Brent to arrive at his house boat. The story of what happended after he arrived would be a stand alone chapter in a book. Or a book all in its own which is the only way to explain how I ended up loosing ten of the 30 miles I gained yesterday. The problem is that I have to get back on the river soon, so it will have to wait. -- My arrival at the house boat --Somehow I got the numbers wrong when I looked at the maps last night. I thought it would be 40 miles from where I camped to Brent’s house boat but instead it was only 30. With a brisk north wind pushing me along with the current I made it here faster than I might have imagined. I guess I should fill you in on who exactly Brent is. He is the other son of Gary and Keeke Pregracke. Remember the Pregrackes are the folks that took us in and thawed us out up in Moline IL last week. I learned from his dad that Brent is a commercial fisherman who prys a living out of the Mississippi. Gary thought I might like a place to warm up when I passed through so he called Brent to see if he wouldn’t mind some company for a night. I’m not one to pass up a night up off the cold ground, so here I am.
With Gary’s aid I had sketched directions to the boat house on my charts it is about three miles below Grand Tower IL just up the Big Muddy River on the Illinois side. Aside from almost blowing right by, I didn’t have any problem finding the place. It’s the only boat around for miles. Brent and I had been playing phone tag since yesterday so we’d never really talked. When I arrived nobody was home so I tied up and cautiously heaved myself up four feet onto the deck of the boat. If ever someone asks me if there is any real need to be able to stand up in a kayak (other than to show off) I’m going to say absolutely.  Brent's houseboat on the Big Muddy river
Once on the boat I tried to let myself in as Gary had described but had no luck with the door. I tried Brent one more time on his cell and finally got through. He told me the door had been fussy lately so if I couldn’t get in through there to try a window. I checked every window all the way around the boat until I found one small window that entered the main “kitchen” area that wasn’t locked. So I stripped out of my paddling clothes and squeezed through the narrow window, over the sink, and into the boat house. The entire time I only hoped that I did have the right place and that nobody else would see some crazy man wearing only long johns breaking into some body’s boat house. Once inside I was able to get the door open then set about the task of getting my gear out of my kayak. I discovered a motor mount platform at the rear of the boat where I cautiously balanced above the swiftly flowing and icy cold Big Muddy river while I dug out the essentials I’d need for the night.
The boathouse itself is not exactly a flag ship. Some would say it’s rustic, others that it’s in need of a woman’s touch (a woman other than the inflatable in the corner that is). What it is, is warm, dry, and out of the wind which is all right with me. It feels good to sit in a soft chair in the warm sun and rest a bit.  Warm and happy in the house boat
My paddling clothes are spread out and drying on the back deck and my next step is to make something to eat. Brent is due back in a couple hours so I’ll finally get to meet him then. With my boat mostly all packed I should be able to get on the water very early tomorrow morning refreshed and ready to go. Day 10 12/15/2009
Daily stats Start: 7:34 AM- Just south of Chester, IL Finish: 1:23 PM - Grand Tower, IL Time: 5:49 Daily dist: 30 miles Total dist: 228 miles Notes: Jake is unable to get internet. Hi all! Jake has hunkered down for the day near Grand Tower, Illinois in a rustic houseboat (courtesy of a contact and follower or the portage project - I'm assuming it's Brent Pregracke?). Unfortunately, he is out of internet range and about out of cell range and cell phone power so he won’t be blogging until tomorrow. He did want to report that he’s calling it early today. He said he will probably “stretch for about an hour” and give his body a chance to rest. He’s already enjoying being out of the cold and the wind and is enjoying an early dinner (late lunch?) on a sunny and enclosed patio. Keep up the great work, Jake! Day 9 (50 miles with time to dry out) 12/14/2009
Daily stats Start: 7:15 AM- Kimmswick Missouri Illinois Finish: 2:30 PM - Illinois Time: 7:15 Daily dist: 50 miles Total dist: 199 miles Companions: None Weather: Overcast in morning becoming clear in the afternoon - chilly Notes: My first day starting from a tent - took time to dry things out I’m writing this blog inside my tent wrapped up in my sleeping bag. It’s a bit chilly tonight and I’m a bit worn out after putting in my first full uninterrupted day of paddling that yielded 50 miles down the river. I started the day by slithering into barely warm thermals that were still wet from the previous day of paddling. I decided that I’d rather give up ten miles of progress if it meant having at least somewhat dryer clothes to put on in the morning. With that in mind I knew I’d need to be off the water by no later than 3:00 if I was to have time to dry things out. I also wanted to see what it would take to log 50 miles on the river so I pulled hard all day to see what sort of progress I could make.  Drying everyting out
Once I hit the beach I strung up a line and laid out every bit of gear and clothing I have to try to chase away the dampness that has invaded every nook and cranny. Fifty miles do-able but an earlier start would make it a bit more humane and still leave time at the end of the day to set up camp and sort things out before dark. I’m going to see if I can streamline my morning routine to get on the water a half hour earlier. I need the daylight more in the afternoon than the morning. Tomorrow my plan is to try to find Brent Pregracke who is the other son of Gary and Keeke Pregracke who we stayed with up in Moline last week. Brent is a commercial fisherman on the river and lives in a house boat about forty miles from here. Daily stats Start: 7:30 AM- Alton Illinois Finish: 3:30 PM - Kimmswick Missouri Time: 8:00 Daily dist: 44 miles Total dist: 149 miles Companions: None Weather: Overcast in morning becoming clear in the afternoon - warm Notes: My first go at locking through a lock. Passed the St. Louis arch at about noon. Yesterday I traded a few miles of downstream progress in order to sleep in comfort but the payoff of starting the day fresh and ready was worth it.  Dave's sailboat in morning light  Alton bridge from marina Today I had my first experience of locking through on two different locks which was intimidating yet thrilling. The sheer size of the lock doors and walls made me feel like a flea on a St. Bernard’s back. The sight of a kayak in December was a bit of a surprise as one of the lock operators exclaimed “You’ve got to be kidding!“ when I pulled the rope to signal that I was there to lock through. Once I was clear of the second lock I was finally on the free flowing Mississippi and I could feel the pull of the current taking me south. I stopped to take some pictures at the marker where the Missouri and Mississippi rivers meet and sort of regretted the decision because the bank was soft mud into which I sank up to my knees.  Huge lock gates in Lock number 27 the last on the river  Just after noon I passed the famous St. Louis arch and made great time as the clouds cleared and I set up my first camp on the shores of the Mississippi.  First camp on Mississippi | Best of the Blog
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